04 April 2010

Happy Easter from Crete

We awoke to a beautiful sunny day here on the Island of Crete, ready to wish you all a Happy Easter.

Last night, we attended Easter Vigil and didn't get back to our hotel until almost 1am. They celebrate the risen Christ here with great enthusiasm.

We're in a town called Chania... small enough to be quaint, but large enough to have a Catholic Church. In the distance you can still see some snow on the caps of the mountains, but the ocean is a deep blue and clear as glass. On Holy Thursday, we found the Catholic Church downtown and attended Mass, adjacent to the Greek Orthodox Cathedral. Most of the churches here, obviously, are Orthodox. ('Orthodox' takes its meaning from the Greek words orthos 'right' and doxa 'belief'. Hence the word Orthodox means correct belief or right thinking.). The chruches dot the hillsides and are typically the most elaborate building in every town.

After Mass on Holy Thursday, you began to hear bells ring slowly (a few times a minute) across the valley. They would ring, in mourning, until Easter Vigil. When we arrived for our 9:30 Mass, we could see preparations for a large crowd outside the Orthodox Cathedral. Our small church had standing room only and Mass lasted about two hours, ending with bells ringing and singing “Jesus Christ has Risen Today (yes, in English)”. As we exited to the courtyard, the alter servers were on the roof as launched the first (of many) fireworks. We could hear firecrackers and some celebratory gunshots also in the distance.

Across the street, hundreds were gathered with a military honor guard, band, a Marine battalion and a group of Navy sailors blocking the center square. Dignitaries were arriving as police managed the street in front of the Cathedral. People were arriving in throngs, with candles and lanterns awaiting the Easter flame. Shortly before midnight, there were thousands in the square as the Chief Priests chanted prayers (in Greek, I assume pronouncing Christ’s resurrection). At precisely midnight, the bells of churches across town began to ring, the military band began to play, horns on cars honked and fireworks started.

From the church, the flame began spreading to candles held by people across the square. Soon all was aglow in warm light. Then, the crowd began to disperse in a procession… they were taking their flames back to their homes, to light their own candles and begin their family celebrations with a traditional meal.

Cool huh!

Anyway, Happy Easter from Rita and I. Although we’re not with you, we join you in the celebration of the joy of the Risen Christ – where ever we all are.

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